- #Best filter option for ektachrome on silverfast 6.6 software#
- #Best filter option for ektachrome on silverfast 6.6 free#
#Best filter option for ektachrome on silverfast 6.6 software#
I also tried an E-6 E100VS slide which scans very well on the Nikon using NikonScan software but found that Silverfast produced a darker image that i didnt prefer. Perhaps that is my fault with one of the settings not set correctly. In some cases Silverfast seems a bit better than Nikon Scan but in other cases I couldn't get it to beat Nikon Scan - the images also seemed a bit darker with Silverfast even if I increased the brightness. Scanned with Silverfast - color cast removal using software. Base image scanned with Nikon scan software But for this particular Grand canyon image I think I almost got a better result with the Nikonscan software and then setting white and black points in photoshop. I used the generic Kodachrome profile in Silverfast and tried the Color Cast removal tool - it improved the result a bit. It takes a bit to get used to and I tried a number of settings to try and get the best scan. I tried a demo version of Silverfast (which as you say does not allow the IT8 calibration). I have gone back and read some of your previous posts - thanks for all your input into the scanning side of things on the forums. Sometimes the "Color Cast Removal" tool works wonders. While comparing the results from all three software in a non-calibrated way is not your ultimate goal, you can at least see how the output between the three differ and provide you a reasonable indication of how they perform.Īll that being said, calibration helps but is not necessarily the be all end all of scanning because each image is different and sometimes non-calibrated results are perfectly acceptable (if the colors are right, they are right.) Calibration is an extra cost (to already expensive software in the case of SilverFast) so you should only get it if you absolutely need it.
#Best filter option for ektachrome on silverfast 6.6 free#
VueScan also comes in a free version so you can easily test that out. It's a bit daunting and the more automatic settings can be great or not so great depending on the image. Also pay attention to the GUI and how easy/difficult it is for you to use. Since SilverFast is expensive, you definitely need to get the demo version (unfortunately you can't calibrate it unless you buy it) and test it out to see how the non-calibrated results look. I guess the algorithms are just different enough to make a difference in the output. There's no rhyme or reason why one software would have trouble with an image and another wouldn't. So, what I've decided to do is to get through all my images using calibrated SilverFast so I can at least finish the job (have a couple thousand negatives and slides.) then go through them noting the problem results and rescanning as necessary. It's maddening to have to scan in all three, calibrated or not, to see which output is best. Some slides look better when not using calibration or using one of the other software.
For most images, calibrated SilverFast is fine with a minimum amount of tweaking. I've noted before that I get different results from NikonScan, SilverFast, and VueScan Pro, calibrated or not. Anyone tried the IT8 calibration and found it made a big difference? The Nikon scanner and Nikon Scan software definetely does a great job with E6 film but maybe with Kodachrome I might have to look at Silverfast. So I guess there are two problems: getting a good Kodachrome scan with the right software to assist color balance, but also some lots of slides may have a more noticeable cast than others due to the condition of the film at the time? I seem to notice the Color cast more on Kodachrome 64 than on some older Kodachrome 25 that I have scanned. Grand Canyon with white and black points set It was a different time of day to the Bryce shots. I also set a white and black point in software and it improved it a bit but still doesnt quite look as I remember.
The film was just the consumer grade 64 - I seem to remember that it was within the exp date but I am not sure how it was stored before I bought it from the store. I then adjusted white/black points in photoshop and got a slight improvement - I havent shown this adjusted image.īut then I scanned some images from the Grand Canyon - wow - I take it this is the blue/magenta cast that others have mentioned. It is interesting that one roll I took in Bryce Canyon came out pretty good - a little flat but not too bad. I was expecting some blue cast issues as others have pointed out. The ones I have shown aren't great photographic images. I took some images on a trip to Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon. I have been thinking about Silverfast and the IT8 calibration but more on that later. I have a Nikon Coolscan 5000 and have recently been scanning some Kodachrome 64 slides that are only a few years old.įirst of all I use Nikon Scan with just the standard Kodachrome setting and ICE turned off. Feel free to offer any suggestions - I am just starting to learn all about scanning. Just thought I would share some of my scanning experiences.